The medicinal waters of Termas do Cró, located 15km north of Sabugal in Central Portugal, in all likelihood have been used for their therapeutic properties in Roman times, but, although some ceramics and coins have been found in the vicinity, there is no concrete evidence of it.
The oldest reference dates from as recent as 1726 when Francisco da Fonseca Henrique, king João V´s doctor, wrote about the healing effects of the water and the need for proper facilities to be built in order to make full use of it. Despite what would have been a recommendation carrying a fair amount of weight, nothing that can be traced came of it.
The next time a project was proposed was in 1909 by Guilherme Ivens Ferrás, but once again, no development took place.
It was only in 1935 that the area was developed, and apart from the thermal complex, included the church of Senhora dos Milagres, the Pensão dos Milagres where visitors stayed and ate during the bathing season, private houses, storage wells for the thermal water, and a telephone and post office. The complex was sold during its heyday in 1955, but fell into disuse in 1974 when financial losses became too big to absorb and continue. The abandoned buildings were looted, until only a vague memory of what once was, remains today.
In 1980 the site was purchased by the Sabugal city council, which, in 2000, looked into the viability of rebuilding facilities onsite to, once more, make use of the curing effects of the water. In 2001 a temporary spa was built, while the final construction was built at a cost of around 5 million euros. Inaugurated in 2013, the modern facilities still utilize the benefits of the mineral water, and serve both tourists and locals.
Notes:
# A visit to the ruins can be part of a loop to explore various sites in the area, can be combined with some spa treatments, a stay at the hotel, or as part of doing a hike.
# Hike the PR8 Termas do Cró: it is a 14.6km loop (find details on the AllTrails App)
# Stay a night or two at the hotel: Cró Hotel Rural
# Enjoy the healing waters at the spa.
# Explore the immediate area, including Sabugal, Castelo de Vila do Touro, or have a swim in summer at the river beach Rapoula do Côa.
# Drive the “Rota dos 5 Castelos ” to visit the castles of Vila do Touro, Alfaiates, Sabugal, Sortelha and Vilar Maior.
# Pack a picnic basket to make the most of the incredible natural beauty of the area.
Written by: Jolandi
Beautiful pictures to complement the interesting history. My favorites are the water reflections!
Thank you, Sarah. 💜
There such an eerie romance to abandoned sites and you captured this so well.
Thank you, Atreyee. Abandoned sites fascinates me. – Jolandi
I enjoyed the exploration of the abandoned part so thoroughly that I felt a hint of disappointment that the springs are actually in use now. Maybe it was because of the totally uninspiring building I see. The area is beautiful and the water lovely beside all the green. The idea of taking a picnic and taking the whole day to wander around and discover sounds like a perfect day to me, maybe with a visit to the spa at the end, but maybe not. 🙂 The spider graffiti caught my eye, and the blue tile, but most of all I appreciate your artistic eye in the photos you have shared. I like the light in the hallway and the geometric perspectives, and I especially like that stone bridge.
I have to agree with you on the new buildings, Crystal. This is exactly one of those places you would appreciate, and although I haven´t hiked in the area, I think it will be very pretty, and as I know you love that too, I promise to think of you when I do manage to do that hike. – Jolandi
Oh yes, DO think of me when you are on a trail. What a thoughtful gift. <3
Amazing how old abandoned sites can generate so much interest. Thanks for the photos and history.
I love abandoned sites, but thank goodness no Instagrammers have discovered it, so it is only the locals who really know of its existence. – Jolandi
Although I’m not particularly a fan of thermal baths (sometimes I get nauseated after a while), I would definitely check out this place if I happen to be in the area. The vestiges of what it once was are enough reason for me to make a detour here.
I’m not a huge fan either, Bama, and swimming in general isn’t what brings me joy in life, but in the right setting or circumstances I find pleasure in it. The location is in a part of Portugal that is not at all touristy, and to me, far prettier and enjoyable because of that. – Jolandi
Beautiful, interesting, and unique pictures. What a fascinating history and experience. Thank you so much for sharing.
Terri
So, how were the healing waters? I’m assuming you went inside and checked out the facilities.
We didn’t try the healing waters, Lani. We were on a little daytrip visiting various other places, so didn’t schedule that into the day. – Jolandi
Dear, dear Jolandi. I cannot stop myself from having a joke. When I read your first few paragraphs featuring “Nothing came of it” or words to that effect, my mind was screaming, “Of course, Jolandi! This is Portugal! Haven’t you worked that out yet?” But of course, in thinking that, it was in reference to lost opportunities for this spa, nothing to do with your own struggles with bureaucracy…
I never did finish my Lightning Ridge series, but I was getting around to my experience at their thermal baths in mineral water that flushes up from the Great Artesian Basin – a huge body of water that lies under the arid centre of Australia. Maybe I’ll shake myself up and get on with that. I am soon due to do a house/dog sit that may go for up to 7 weeks. Who knows how I’ll occupy myself?
As far as I know, my mother only had one holiday in her very long (but unfortunate) life. It was to the Hydro Majestic in Medlow Bath in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Also allowed to go to rack and ruin, and now revitalised but not in its original form, it was promoted as a health spa.
https://www.hydromajestic.com.au/about/history
xx Gwen
Your first paragraph had me in stitches, Gwen. That ‘this is Portugal’ phrase (usually preceded by ‘what were we thinking’) is one we often use in various forms, especially when our optimism is dashed . . . again and again.
A house/dog sit that can go for up to 7 weeks is quite a marathon, so I hope you find time to write about the thermal baths, as from the sound of it, it will be fascinating to read. I had a peak at the website to find out more about Hydro Majestic, and it seems that it was the place to be seen if you were anyone important at the time, which makes it even more fascinating that it was the place that your mother took her one and only holiday. That whole era in which all these health spas were popular and at the cutting edge of health science is fascinating to me. – Jolandi
I love your third photo, the reflection and subject drew me in… Abandoned places are intriguing to me because they leave a mystery, asking those questions you did in your post. Part of the fun of seeing such sights is wondering what it was like, and the people who were drawn to it in its heyday. It gets the minding thinking of all the possibilities and connects us a bit closer with the past and its people. Wonderful post, Jolandi 🙂
Thank you, Randall. Your thoughts really resonates with me, and I couldn’t have said it better as to why I am drawn to abandoned places. It is perhaps also why I am so drawn to Portugal, as its cities and towns are littered with abandoned buildings amidst ones that are restored or even new. – Jolandi
I really enjoyed reading your account of the history of this site, Jolandi. I hope the new building has a better fortune than the old one! I liked seeing those gorgeous blue and white tiles in the abandoned buildings.
I hope so too, Clare. It is so sad when buildings are discarded as if they are an old unwanted piece of clothing. – Jolandi
The contemporary buildings look like a hospital campus compared to the old ruins! I suppose if they’re still selling the medicinal qualities of the water, it might make sense: but most people I know, in California anyway, want their spa experience to be more resort-like and not like a stay in a clinic. Oh well. I love your photos of the old ruined buildings. They’re haunting but not creepy, I think; they’re like very old people who can no longer speak but who seem to contain a hundred stories. You’re also really selling Portugal! Reading your blog has made me think about making a trip there, something I hadn’t considered before this.
I must admit that the new buildings don’t charm me either, Hangaku. Portugal has many charming places to visit, and it certainly is the ‘in’ place to visit these days, but for me, most of its charms lie in the off-the-beaten track towns, where most tourists never go. I should really make some time to write about more of these places I’ve visited, as I’m sure they will delight and inspire you too. – Jolandi