Portugal abounds with castles. Some could have been lifted from fairy tales, others have been used in fantasy films to create the otherworldly, and then there are those which were essential for security when the border between Portugal and Spain were not as clearly defined as it is today.
Vila do Touro castle falls under the latter category. Construction of it, in all likelihood, started shortly after Vila do Touro was donated to the Knights Templar by the Council of Guarda in 1220. It was never completed, though, as it lost its purpose as a vital military outpost, when King Dinis signed the Treaty of Alcanizes in 1297 with Léon and Castile, which established a clearer border between the kingdoms.
Many of the stones were later used by locals to build houses and walls, which means that today only two sections of the outer wall, and the ogival arch gate remains in good condition. The only other visible remains are the foundations of six rectangular buildings, which in all probability were the accommodation for the labourers who worked on the fortification.
Occupation of the site can be traced back to the Iron Age. Floors, walls, postholes, grain silos and hearths were found during excavations that date back to the 1st millennium BC. No wonder, as the location has a fantastic 360° view of the surrounding landscape.
It is speculated that these settlements were abandoned before the arrival of the Romans on the Iberian Peninsula, and that the site remained unoccupied until the early 13th century.
According to local belief, the name Touro (bull) refers to a local legend that refers to a golden calf that was found in the surrounding area. Northeast of the town there is still a river called Ribeiro do Bezerrinho, which means little calf or little bull.
Notes:
# Vila do Touro really is just a quick stop to admire the incredible views from the castle and not a destination in itself, which can be combined with a visit to Termas do Cró.
# Carved in a rock, a short distance to the front of the Capela de Nossa Senhora do Mercado, dating back to the 16th century, having been built on top of the remains of a medieval church, you will find a medieval boardgame carved into a rock, which was in all likelihood carved by the builders of the castle.
# There are picnic tables to the side of the chapel, which is ideal for pausing for a snack or meal.
# Two beautiful Manueline windows remain in town, and is worth noting. Manueline style is sometimes referred to as Portuguese late Gothic, and originated in the 16th century.
Written by: Jolandi
I love the idea the townsfolk just carried off the stones. Heck! If you’re not going to finish this place, we’re not going to let perfectly good mason work go to waste!
And just today I was reading commentary of people who go out of their way to visit a place, only to be underwhelmed. So, your caution that Vila do Touro is a pit stop, and not a tourist idyll, was most timely.
xx G
Exactly! I wonder how many of the village houses were built with those stones.
I think social media (and reviews) feeds into an insatiable desire for the spectacular, which I think not only dismisses most of what is ‘out there’ to see and experience, but is also creating expectations that is not always possible for sites or experiences to live up to. There is definitely value in allowing oneself the space and time to discover places without expectations, which is why I love roadtrips that take me away from where most tourists congregate. – Jolandi
Thank you for taking us to see Vila do Touro Castle. With such a view, people must have valued that location for defense as well as for information about what is going on (I’m thinking weather, too). Such a shame that much of it is gone, but what is left is pretty cool. Those Manueline windows! So, so beautiful. I’ve never heard of this style and I’m glad to learn some architecture that sounds particularly Portuguese. The board game just reminded me that there is one in Ephesus, also. Carved into the steps of some government building. The theory I heard is that it was likely carved by people waiting outside to be allowed in to see someone official. Your photos do a great job of showing what this site is like, and the beauty of the land and the ruins.
I love that there is a board game carved into the steps of a government building in Ephesus, Crystal. I guess throughout the ages people had to grappel with waiting for officials or official processes.
The Manueline (or late Gothic style) in Portugal can be seen in many of the really famous sites (follow this link if you are curious), but I think it is particularly special when one discover little gems like these in unexpected places. – Jolandi
Thank you for that link! The Manueline architecture is definitely a style that appeals to my love of fantasy. Now I feel that I must add the town of Sintra to my Portugal visit, as well as the Jerónimos Monastery, and lucky for me they are near to each other. But the very first example, the decorated ribbed vaults at Igreja de Jesus in Setubal is the one I love most. Maybe it’s easier for me to appreciate art when it is simpler, but that is just stunning to my eyes.
Maybe Manueline architecture can be your guiding principle when you and Pedro one day plan a trip to Portugal. That may make planning simpler, as there are so many wonderful places to visit. Sintra is gorgeous with many interesting places to explore, but definitely worth visiting in the low season, unless you can stomach the crowds. Although that said, there are off the beaten track places too. I have a whole lot of wonderful recommendations for one day when you are planning a trip. My writing is lagging years behind all the places I’ve been to. – Jolandi
Beautiful pictures. I missed the earlier post on Termas do Cró.
Long to be in Portugal (saudade) – last in Lisbon in June 2023.
Will be in Andalucia from next Tuesday so possibly in the Algarve in a couple of weeks.
Trevor and Georgina
Thanks, Trevor. I hope you and Georgina will enjoy being back in Andalucia, before spending time in the Algarve. I understand your saudade for Portugal. It certainly has been a while for you two. Enjoy. – Jolandi
It’s nice to find these out-of-the-way places. And so common for people to carry away stones for their own use. An early form of recycling.
I haven’t looked at it that way, Peggy, but it is true, and what a wonderful way of recycling unused stones, especially when all the hard labour has been done by someone else. – Jolandi
What a beautiful area ~ and historical places like this always takes me back in time. The views you capture with your photos makes me understand why building such a castle/defensive position made sense back then, impressive 360 degree view. There is so much value in taking excursions anywhere, but especially in the land you call home, as it makes us richer in understanding both nature and the culture of the area. Wishing you well, Jolandi.
That is so true, Randall. My sister was here for a visit last year over Christmas, and this was one of the stops we made on a little drive in the area to explore. The view really is incredible, and I’m so glad we stopped to take it all in, despite it being on a very cold winter’s day. Like you say, it is exploring like this that gives one a better sense of the place one calls home. – Jolandi
This castle looks like it’s up my alley — some ancient ruins with significant history. Did you go in autumn? The weather looks very pleasant with those blue skies. The carved boardgame is interesting. In a way it reminded me of a carved thali plate I spotted in Hampi when I went to this part of India back in 2015. I guess rocks really inspired people in the past to carve something out of them depending on what they needed most.
Ironically those blue skies are the most prominent on icy winter days, Bama, but I have come to love and appreciate the gifts winter brings. A warm jacket is a must to be able to enjoy those gifts, but these days with overtourism in so many places, I am more and more looking towards travelling in the dead of winter in general, and although I haven’t done a trip like that yet, my outings close to home is teaching me that it holds a different kind of beauty and enjoyment. – Jolandi
That reminds me of my trip to Istanbul in January 2013. The skies were often gray, but when they turned blue, they’re among the bluest skies I have ever seen in my life. While I love being in a cool place in general since it offers a different experience from home, after a while I usually miss the warm tropical temperatures of Jakarta where I can wear shorts and casual t-shirts as opposed to many layers of clothing.