What I would consider one of the most beautiful gardens in Portugal can be found in one of the most untouristy places in the country.

Built by the Bishop of Guarda, João de Mendonça around 1720, the Episcopal Palace Garden or Jardim do Paço Episcopal in Castelo Branco, was part of a large agricultural complex that surrounded the bishop’s winter residence. It included two olive groves, a vineyard, a rabbit run, woods, and a vegetable garden, apart from the palace garden.

More work on the garden was done under the sponsorship of the second bishop of the diocese of Castelo Branco, Dom Vicente Ferrer da Rocha, towards the end of the 18^th century, which included the terraces that open onto the outside and the decorative stucco on the walls.

Built in the Italian style it represents one of the most original examples of Baroque Garden design in Portugal. The focus of these gardens was the attempt to represent the Universe in a symbolic way. Aesthetic values were combined with philosophical concepts to create a garden in which geometric patterns divided by gravel alleys ending in fountains or statues were essential elements of the design.

Both the original design of the garden, as well as who the designer was, have been lost, but one can still get a good sense of what it looked like based on the main layout.

The garden consists of several levels that are connected by staircases, avenues and themed paths with granite sculptures representing a diverse array of themes, including the Zodiac, seasons, four parts of the earth, the four Cardinal Virtues – Justice, Prudence, Fortitude and Temperance, a Moral Virtue – Cleanliness,  three Theological Virtues – Faith, Hope, and Charity, the apostles, and the kings of Portugal.

Elevated, and overseeing the boxwood garden on the main level is a statue of John the Baptist, on which pedestal an inscription reads: ‘No greater man was born of women than St John the Baptist, to whom the desert preacher John of all people dedicated this retreat in the year of the Lord 1725, the 13th of his episcopate’.

The kings of Portugal are all represented on the Escadaria dos Reis, or Kings’ Staircase, including the statues of the kings who ruled when Portugal was under Spanish rule, viewed as the intruder kings (between 1580 and 1640), which are smaller than the rest.

Water features strongly throughout the garden, which in a space rich in symbolism is said to function as a purifying element amidst a constant interplay between the duality of heaven and earth.

In the boxwood garden the five fountains is an allusion to the five wounds of Christ.

Slightly higher than the boxwood garden, and next to the path that connects the Kings’ Staircase with that of the Apostles, sits the Lago das Coroas, or Lake of Crowns with its three fountains.

Located on the southern side, the Flooded Garden with its trapezoidal shape, and flowerbeds surrounded by water, creates a striking effect, especially when viewed from the upper terrace.

On the upper level of the garden a waterfall is flowing into a large tank from which the whole garden was watered, while also operating the fountains through pressure. A statue of Moses presides over the waterfall, which is flanked to the front by Saint Anne, and the Samaritan woman. It is said that a boat was kept on the tank for the bishops to row and relax.

Mary Magdalene, the patron saint of gardeners, keeps watch over the fertiliser door, which once led to one of the olive groves of the palace.

Each season has its own beauty. In spring the air is perfumed with orange blossoms and jasmine, which makes it a particularly love time to visit.

The Episcopal Palace building, whose construction began at the end of the 16^th century, under the order of Dom Nuno de Noronha, currently houses the Francisco Tavares Proença Junior Museum. It initially served as the winter residence of the Bishops of Guarda, but later, between 1771 and 1831 became the permanent residence of the bishops of the newly created Diocese of Castelo Branco.

From 1834, when religious orders were banned in Portugal, the palace housed various public service entities, and as a result the grounds were neglected until it was bought by the municipality in 1919. The current entrance to the garden that is accessed from Rua Bartolomeu da Costa, was designed by Manuel Tavares dos Santos in 1936. The landing was built to access the main terrace, and is in keeping with the spirit of the rest of the garden, and includes tiled murals that serve as a reminder of the past.

Notes:
Although Castelo Branco doesn’t have much to offer tourists, it is a place worth exploring, even for just half a day. The castle, although in itself not much, offers lovely views of the city, while strolling through the narrow alleyways down the hill to have lunch is a great way to experience the city.

# To eat: Mãos de Horta serves vegetarian food made from local produce, and is located in the old part of town – every second and fourth Saturday of the month it also plays host to a small artisan market

# To sleep: CASA 92 – Os Lugares de Castraleuca is located on the main square which gives one easy access to the old town, Jardim do Paço, and castle, while the Meliá Castelo Branco is close to the castle, but further away from the old town, with fantastic views over the countryside. I’ve stayed at both, and can recommend them without hesitation.

Written by: Jolandi