“We forget that the water cycle and the life cycle are one.”
— Jacques Yves Cousteau
Growing up on a farm where dryland farming was, and still is practiced, and where a limited water supply via boreholes was available for raising animals and domestic use, the preciousness of water has been ingrained in me. Taps running for longer than I think they should, to this day, make me extremely anxious.
We are blessed with the amount of water we have on the quinta, and although it is plentiful, are very much aware that it is a precious resource to be utilized responsibly, as it is finite and integrally linked to rainfall patterns. Seasonal rainfall seems to be roughly 850mm a year for where we are, but as we are only in our second season of data since I’ve started recording our rainfall, it means we are a long way away from seeing a pattern emerging. February this year has been extremely wet with 92mm of rain, which stands in sharp contrast with the 7 and 2mm respectively of the previous two years.
Yet in the south of Portugal, the Algarve is continuously grappling with drought conditions. A recent newspaper headline reads Algarve drought nears “catastrophic” level. Dams in this area are at historic lows with not enough water to see the area through summer unless significant rain falls in the interim. A contingency plan includes water cuts of 70% in the agricultural sector, and 15% for urban consumption, as well as price hikes which was supposed to be implemented at the beginning of March, but has been suspended, as mayors in the area are refusing to apply them.
The agricultural sector sees both water cuts and price hikes as a catastrophe, as citrus farmers are already seeing their crops drying up as production costs keep increasing. And then there is the contentious issue of the water that is used for intensive agricultural crops like avocado plantations that should never have been planted in the first place in an area prone to droughts.
The tourism sector, which is a vital part of the economy, appears to be fairly proactive in tackling the issue. Golf courses have started to invest in wastewater systems for their irrigation needs, as well as planting more drought resistant plants, while hotels and AL establishments are said to have already installed aerators and flow restrictors on taps, while also making tourists aware of the importance of conserving water.
The biggest headlines are made by the government proposed construction of a desalination plant in Albufeira in a bid to address the issue, which has quickly turned into a highly controversial project. Some owners of the various pieces of land that is earmarked for the development are refusing to sell, as the money they have been offered falls short of the actual value of the land, while it appears that the environmental impact such a plant will have on the area will be devastating for the area in general which rely on tourists flocking to some of the most pristine beaches in the world. The amount of untreated brine that will be pumped back into the ocean seems to outweigh the amount of fresh water that would be gained in the process, and which will amount to only a fraction of water that is needed in the Algarve.
Not only has no environmental impact study been done, but the money for funding the project holds its own controversies. Slated to be paid for from Portugal’s Recovery and Resilience Plan, which is money received from the European Union, some critics point out that the project doesn’t meet all the conditions set out for the use of this money. Águas do Algarve´s tender for 90 million euros with an estimated completion date of 2026, doesn’t just coincide with the timeline in which money from the fund should be used, but is almost double the original estimated budget, and is the focus of suspicion and criticism.
According to the sustainable water platform PAS (Plataforma Água Sustentável) a desalination plant will essentially provide the same amount of water that is currently being lost through poor maintenance and leaks in the region´s public water supply network, but according to the president of AMAL (the intermunicipal community in the Algarve) an investment of €40 million is already ‘underway’ to plug leaks.
The president of AMAL is also one of the proponents of a plan to be granted access to the Alentejo´s Alqueva reservoir, which supplies water to intensive olive and almond plantations in the Alentejo. According to him, a mere 1% of water stored in the Alqueva dam will be able to provide for all the water needs of the Algarve.
Apart from two proposed dams to be built at Pomarão and Foupana, which have been in the pipeline and put on hold for years, there is also talk about a plan to build a so-called water highway channeling water from the wetter north to the parched south. A plan that is vehemently opposed by the north, who has their own problems with supplying enough water to various agricultural projects in the years when their dams aren’t full.
It seems that every day brings something new to the debate in which practical and sustainable solutions are a mere mirage on the horizon, while politicians play word and power games, as a prelude to the general election in early March, ironically after the government was dissolved in November 2023, because of corruption investigations.
Water is not just an essential component of life, but is becoming increasingly rare and contentious in many parts of the world. On the Iberian Peninsula it isn’t just the Algarve that is grappling with drought and controversies. In Spain, Catalonia is experiencing one of the worst droughts in living memory, while Andalucia in the south has its own challenges to contend with.
A Special Memory or Moment of Joy:
During Michael’s most recent visit we’ve had a couple of lovely evenings without any wind during which we could sit next to a campfire drinking wine, and simply revelling in one another’s company, while watching the stars appear in the night sky. Although we were, as always, engaged in various projects, this time around felt more relaxed than usual, and I am grateful that the conditions were just right on three evenings for building a fire outside. There is something magical about huddling around one that resonates deep within my soul, and is always more special when shared instead of enjoying on one´s own.
Notes:
# There seems to be out-the-box thinking taking place to ensure sustainable solutions for various problems the world is facing, but projects of such nature are often difficult to get off the ground, as funding is often difficult to secure: World-first solution – promising water for Algarve – in desperate search for ‘right location’
# Earlier in February a severe storm brought heavy rain and hail to the UAE. Follow this link for video footage of hail in Al Ain, and this one for an article and video footage mainly from Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
# Wild Asparagus season has started, which never fails to bring joy to my heart, as Midnight & Lily are keen to accompany me on my excursions to find the emerging spears before they grow too tall.
A Portuguese Expression:
Que griso! – It´s freezing!
Although February in general was quite a mild month, snow on the Serra de Estrela has tinged the strong winds of the last couple of days of February with an icy chill that has me hiding indoors.
Written by: Jolandi
The weather has been so strange this winter. There appears to be such a disparity between the south and the north of Europe. The north has had more than it’s fair share of rain and snow and the south has hardly had any. I have been reading about the undersea volcanic eruption near Tonga in January 2022 which sent countless litres of water up into the stratosphere. This, so some experts are saying, is the cause of the very wet and gloomy winter many of us have had and also the extreme amounts of snow that Scandinavia has experienced. Apparently, it will cause warming effects as well, and the effects will probably last for some years.
I am so pleased that you and Michael had such a pleasant time together during his last visit.
Best wishes, Clare xoxo
What fascinating information, Clare. It will be interesting to see what the summer weather will be like. I just hope that there will be good spring rains in all the drought stricken areas. Many areas on our land is so soggy that I hope we don’t get any rain for a while, but next week’s prediction already looks like we may get more rain. We really are blessed with water on our land. – Jolandi
Wow, Clare, that is fascinating information. Thank you for sharing it here.
Hail in Al Ain? How extraordinary. We were there in November. Good to know you are getting asparagus—my favourite vegetable.
Indeed, Peggy. There are videos of the hail looking like snow on the red dunes, so it really wasn’t just a sprinkle.
I love that I can pick wild asparagus on the land. It is such a treat to be able to forage on one’s own land. – Jolandi
With a changing climate, issues like this will become more and more common across the globe. Some places seem to be more well-prepared than the others. But many, I’m afraid, are not doing enough to secure water for their people and their economy. Portugal sounds like it is somewhere in the middle — there is a growing awareness of the challenges ahead, although its politicians don’t seem to be willing to do the right thing. I hope your quinta won’t be too affected by any possible drought in the future!
So true, Bama. Adequate water is definitely a challenge in many parts of the world, and it is sad that not enough is being done in advance to solve the problem, especially as many solutions involve huge sums of money as well as time. I also marvel at how often bad maintenance is sited as being part of the problem. We think we should be fine on the quinta with enough water, so every time we struggle with one of the many bureaucratic processes we remind ourselves that we are also future proofing our life. At least that is what we like to think and what we are planning for as much as we can. But who knows what the future holds. – Jolandi
Ah, yes, the promise and the pursuit of water. This is a big issue, it seems, in many places in the world. In my home state of Hawaii, this is also an problem — they’ve considered desalination but it’s costly and goodness knows how it would really impact the environment.
But problems don’t go away on their own, although, politicians seem to think climate change will.
In SEA, we go through droughts and then times of plenty, so I can’t tell if that’s normal anymore. I always ask the locals, is this normal weather?
So true, Lani. I don’t think anyone knows what normal weather is anymore.
And yes, problems don’t just disappear, yet it appears to be easier to bicker, instead of being proactive. I cringe to think how many places in the world are facing severe droughts and issues with water security, yet plans of action are so slow to be put into place. Like you, I often wonder of the later environmental cost of desalination.
A very wet March has been predicted for us, and although I wish for warmer sunny weather, I remind myself that every single drop of water is a blessing. – Jolandi
Your talk about running water making you anxious reminds me of things that affect me now, that I know are habits I developed due to childhood scarcity. Pedro can probably relate to your feelings about water. Though we live in a place with too much water, he still conserves when he can, for example only having the shower on while he needs to rinse, otherwise the spigot is off while he soaps up. I admire it but haven’t adopted the habit. At least I brush my teeth with the water off.
When I was young, I remember reading that desalination would “never” be a viable option due to the expense of using it on a large scale. So glad that human ingenuity (and necessity) change the course of things for the better. I have faith that the problems with the Albufeira water needs will eventually be resolved, though from the sounds of things, there will be a rough path. I hope the environment is protected during the process.
When Pedro and I first moved into our new house at the end of July 2023, we saw a withered asparagus in one garden bed tucked behind all the landscaping. Our eventual plan is to tear out those beds because they are in a bad place for growing. BUT! I check the spot occasionally, now that weather is better, in hopes of an asparagus crop, which I have never had. I have fingers crossed.
I always find it interesting how our upbringing and experiences shape and change us, Crystal. I don´t quite go as far as Pedro to turn off the tap, but I do ´soften´ the flow unless I am rinsing my hair. Personally I think it is a good habit when one is frugal with resources, even when it may seem that there is an abundance where one lives, because those habits then come naturally when we find ourselves in places or situations where there isn´t an abundance of something.
It is interesting that you mention turning off the tap when you brush your teeth. There are two things that, the first time I´ve heard them, left me utterly confused. The first was that people would run a tap while brushing their teeth in the first place. And the second was when I heard people refer to ´cooking from scratch´. How else would you cook, I thought. Growing up on a farm where resources (including money) were limited taught me that one can live a good life without being wasteful, and as it turns out, is also good for the well-being of the planet.
Just this morning I read an article that said water consumption in the Algarve has dropped, so I guess people are taking the seriousness of the situation to heart, and have started to use less. There are so many places in the world where water or lack thereof is an issue far more serious than most of us realize. I guess we only tend to pay attention to things, when it affects us directly.
How wonderful that you have an asparagus plant in your garden. Fingers crossed you will experience the joy of picking your own asparagus. – Jolandi
I’ve been very concerned and reading about water issues lately, so your post was timely and informative. Thanks for sharing and glad you’re having a pleasant time. We just had another bout of bad weather in the UAE, chaos everywhere!
There are so many huge cities that are struggling with water or whole areas in the world where it is a crisis, so I am glad to hear that I am not the only one who had water (or the lack thereof) on my mind, Sarah.
Oh my goodness, what is up with these storms in the UAE? Michael sent me a couple of videos of pouring rain, which used to be such a rare occurance not that long ago, but is certainly looking like it is becoming more frequent. I cringe to think of how many cars were written off. Michael has a coworker who is struggling to get his insurance to pay, as they claim it as an ‘act of God’. I hope you managed to avoid most of the chaos. – Jolandi
Yes, it’s been crazy the past few weeks. Flooding and all, hail and snow in Al Ain!! Thank God we’ve been okay, leakages in the house but was dealt with. I’m surprised about the insurance claim, they closed a major highway and a lot of people were stranded until early hours. Having said that, they prepared us in advance and advised us to stay at home…
Glad to hear that you’ve been okay, Sarah. I can relate to the leakages in the house, as we’ve also had to deal with that when we lived in Al Ain. Buckets and old towels were essentials. Luckily the apartment building in Abu Dhabi has no such problems. Michael is in the Hatta-Fujairah area today, and told me that there is a lovely green sheen in many places, which always feels so miraculous in a bone dry place. – Jolandi
I didn’t see this update, apologies. I’ve been having issues with WordPress and I cannot figure out why.
The city of San Diego has a desalination plant that provides it with most of its water…which to me tastes terrible. I’m not sure if it’s because of the process or if they add any chemicals to make it safe to drink, but it’s bitter and “flat,” if that makes sense. I don’t know if it has a negative effect on plants because most of the landscaping in San Diego features native desert plants like succulents and cacti, or no plants at all. Xeriscaping became popular during the last drought, so large boulders, gravel and sculptures are seen where in Northern California you’d see a green front lawn. I think it’s smart to treat water as a finite resource, even in places where water seems abundant. (Or as I grumble to my kids, it may be gushing out of the tap now, but there’s always the chance you’ll get a year with little to no rain. Opening a tap and hearing gurgling before a thin brown stream trickles out is a sobering way to realize how much we take water for granted.)
I’m glad you got to spend time with Michael! Sitting with a loved one next to a nighttime fire is a reminder that life should be savored.
No problem, Hangaku. I used to get notified by email when there were comments on the blog, but that has disappeared, and I cannot for the life of me find the place where I can fix it, so unless I sign in through our Blue Host account, I don’t see the comments. And I tend to forget to check in every once in a while.
I love the idea of Xeriscaping. Working with resources that are available and indigenous plants always make for more creative and interesting landscaping. At least in my opinion.
I definitely agree with you on the taste of desalinated water. The water in the UAE comes from desalination plants, and although it was fine for cooking, for drinking water we bought these huge refillable water bottles that fit on top of a water cooler. I am spoiled these days with the delicious taste of our own water on the quinta without chemicals. It is such a blessing.
You definitely also live in a part of the world where water, as I understand from various podcasts I’ve been listening to, is often a contentious issue because of farming practices. I think it is a luxury to take water for granted these days. – Jolandi
Hi Jolandi,
I suppose the most uplifting thing I can say about Portugal’s battle with water and lack of forward-thinking politicians is that it is great to hear that Australia is not alone!
Years ago, in my letter-writing days, I had an older friend who lived in England and she would regularly remark on odd things happening in her garden out of season. That must have been in the early 90s. Now I think she was like the canary in the coalmine – warning that something was not right with weather patterns.
Over here, after a wet summer, we are now having an Indian one. We are officially in autumn, but high temperatures persist.
As for old habits. Yep. Our house was not one of plenty, so even though we were suburban, our habits were frugal. No bathroom or hot water in the house, for example. And my aunt who lived in what was then bushland, had a rainwater tank and a fuel stove. The water came from the tank, to the stove, to the bathtub – and as the dirtiest, I was always the last one in 🙂
The image of you getting to use the bathtub last brought a smile to my face, Gwen, as I can just imagine what you were up to in order to get you that dirty.
I’m glad that you at least had a wet summer, although I hope it didn’t involve flooding. I also hope the heat will soon give way to cooler temperatures. Summer used to be my favourite season in South Africa, but I struggle with high temperatures these days, and it seems that in most places in the world the summers are just getting hotter. I think it is when one gardens or farms that one is more aware of the nuances of weather patterns, as there is a clear and tangible result that can be observed. – Jolandi
Growing up in an agricultural community does highlight the opening quote you used very well ~ water is everything, and on the West Coast of the USA, the battle for water rights has been going on for decades. As you say, cuts to water access and the rising costs put farmers in a catastrophic position. Then, there is the fishing community (the salmon runs especially), which poses an opposite and just as important issue, and solutions are hard to find. Management is important to bring the pieces together, and conservation and new technology are the hope (efficient irrigation methods and laws). It is a mess, but it is also heartening that people (farmers, experts, individuals, and governments) can work together and continue to find solutions to make it work – the key is to do it properly. Your comments about desalination plants and technology are wonderful in that you explain the problems so well. This technology is often a pie-in-the-sky solution, which causes people not to consider how it hides the underlying problems. Wonderful post – especially reading how you and Michael find the time to sit back and put all issues aside and enjoy what you’ve created, taking in the beautiful land and life around you. Beautiful! I wish you a wonderful spring of bringing more dreams alive. Cheers ~
Thank you for your insightful comment, Randall. I think all of us who have grown up in agricultural communities have a slightly different relationship with the natural world than those who have grown up in urban areas. Like you point out so well, the problems around water is often so much more than meets the eye, and I think as humans we have a propensity to often complicate things even more, instead of addressing the things causing the problems in the first place. Wishing you a gorgeous spring, too. – Jolandi