“Over the past eight years, as part of a global storytelling project called the Out of Eden Walk, I have been hiking continents emptied of their wildlife by human beings. The Gaoligong represent a chance for solace. They are one of the planet’s last remaining vaults of biodiversity: a glimpse into a teeming Earth that once was.”
– Paul Salopek
I have no idea what constitutes a normal weather pattern in Portugal. Truth be told I don’t know what that is anywhere in the world. What I do know is that the weather impacts hugely on my emotional and mental well-being, and I definitely think what I classify as cold weather lasts way too long to my liking in this part of Portugal. But what has been on my mind more than the cold lately is the effect of human life on the planet, and the roll I play in it.
I am by no means an activist, or even prepared to give up some of the modern comforts I consider essentials, but I do consider choices I make carefully, while doing my best to keep an open mind when in conversation with others to learn from their perspective. In the process I’ve learned that green choices are not quite as green as they are toted to be. Taking anything at face value is definitely a mistake, and judging others for the choices they make is also not the way forward if we want to build better relationships, both with others, but also this beautiful planet we call home.
My solution, as always, for more internal peace is to avoid most forms of media, and rejoice in the beauty around me. Fields of yellow flowers perched on long delicate looking stems twirl like dervishes in the wind that has been rather strong and cold the whole month. Although the night-time temperatures are higher, I would say that March was a colder month than February if I consider daytime temperatures alone.
The hawthorns are dressed in vivid green, and their tiny white flowers are scenting the air with a delicate aroma. The lavender growing wild on the land are showing their gratitude to my many hours of pruning by flowering much earlier than usual, and the two peach trees I’ve planted with the other fruit trees just before Christmas have a spray of pink blossoms contrasting to the mostly grey skies currently dominating the days. The white broom is in flower, and although the dominant colours seem to be yellow, purple, and white, there is also a renewed palette of green thanks to the rain we’ve had.
The first cuckoo birds have recently arrived, adding their voices to those of a myriad other birds and as such announced the start of spring. Although I am grateful for the change in season, it also means that the chores are multiplying, and strimming becomes a regular job. Matthias has started pruning our olive trees and also conducted a pruning workshop on the quinta, which was a wonderful introduction to the principles of pruning. One more thing I need to learn and master, and although I have no problem pruning the hawthorns and oaks, I am extremely nervous when it comes to the olive and fruit trees.
Unfortunately, all of this also means that tick season has started, and I have to check both myself and the cats regularly. They are treated with Frontline once a month, but it certainly doesn’t deter those ticks to catch rides on them into the house. I am particularly obsessed with spotting and killing them, as I got Rickettsia (similar to Lyme’s disease) years ago from a tick bite in Spain, which resulted in a long illness and expensive treatment, when it was eventually diagnosed. Understandably I would do anything in my power to avoid another experience like that.
I often watch a Grey Heron standing like a statue on the edge of the sharka, waiting for an unsuspecting frog to make the first move. Sometimes a stork is wading through the grass, pausing at various puddles of water on the neighbouring land, while the calls of raptors regularly have me tilting my head towards the sky. A female Iberian Wolf has been spotted in the district, creating a sense of hope that their numbers will grow over time, and on the land the presence of wild boar and deer have left their respective marks.
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- Evidence of deer
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- Evidence of wild boar
At the beginning of the month, I spent three nights in Madrid. Two, to catch up with my sister who lives in Galicia, Spain, as she had some business to take care of at the South African Embassy in Madrid, and one night with Michael after picking him up from the airport. Madrid still fails to charm me as a city, and this time the weather didn’t play along either, but it was lovely to eat great food in lovely restaurants, and do some shopping. I love to explore small corners of cities or countries when I travel, and as such try to match what I’m looking for to the neighbourhood I base myself in. This time it was the Salamanca neighbourhood, and although I neither have the inclination nor wallet to match the high end stores it is famous for, it has many other affordable delights, is home to the South African embassy, and a short walk away from Retiro Park. Our two-bedroom Airbnb was surprisingly enough the cheapest I could find in Madrid.
It was, as always lovely to have Michael here, but the briefness of his visit left me a bit heartbroken when he had to leave less than a week after he arrived. I am itching to start landscaping around the house, so it was time to build the retaining wall we’ve planned a long time ago. We ran out of time before we could throw the concrete for the last two steps leading into the higher area, but we were pleased with the result. It will be finished in May when Michael will be here for three weeks with his parents.
Michael was kind enough to shorten the irrigation pipes at the trees I’ve planted, which saves me a ton of work, as these tasks always takes me twice as long as it takes him. That means that I can now just focus on filling in the holes that have no trees yet, and plant the comfrey we bought at the beginning of the month.
To soften the sting of saying goodbye I again broke my journey to spend a night on the road. This time in Lagartera, a small town close to Oropesa, where I went for a quick stroll despite the looming rain clouds that followed me from Madrid.
Lagartera
Oropesa
ON MY PLATE & IN THE GARDEN
There is borage coming up everywhere after it self-seeded in autumn, and some of it has started flowering. So is the thyme, with the chives and oreganum starting to push out flower buds. The strawberries are flowering, and the lettuce and spring onions are doing well, while the wild asparagus are also finding their way onto my plate. The seeds I’ve planted in the house just after Michael left are doing well, and I just potted on the tomatoes. I love the excitement this time of the year brings, as I’m planning and looking forward to my summer vegetable garden.
WEATHERING THE WEATHER
Dust from the Sahara filled the skies over the quinta for two days this month. Although the weather system that brought a lot of dust to the Iberian Peninsula on a couple of occasions, and even pushed further north into other parts of Europe, influenced our weather, we only had two days of dust filled skies. It was nothing like those brown skies I was used to in the UAE, but it felt eerie and out of place here.
A total of 78 mm of rain fell this month, and although the weather was rather bleak and cold, we had no frost.
OFFICIALDOM
Although the process of adding our habitation licence to the deed of the land at the Land Registry office has not been completed, we did have to pay a tax to them halfway through March, which means there is something happening. There has been no news on my residence visa, but in the meantime I am getting a bit more familiar with the intricacies of the Portuguese language in my language classes.
MIDNIGHT & LILY
Midnight and Lily love to keep an eye on everything we do, and we nearly had a heart attack when we saw Lily strolling over the newly thrown concrete, but interestingly enough she left no footprints.
PORTUGUESE WORDS
poeira – dust
chuva – rain
nublado – cloudy
nuvem (nuvens) – cloud (clouds)
primaveira – spring
amarelo – yellow
roxo – purple
abelha(s) – bee(s)
NOTES
# If you ever find yourself in the Salamanca neighbourhood in Madrid, consider the following places to eat or drink: Lateral Velazquez serves excellent pinchos (small plates), 10.10 Coffee is a speciality coffee shop and although expensive, serves the best coffee I’ve had in a very long time, breakfast at Balbisiana is excellent, and the Mercado de la Paz, a historic neighbourhood food market is a must to stock up on Spanish food essentials.
# Enlakruz in the heart of Lagartera provides comfortable and well priced accommodation.
TO READ
# I’ve just started contributing to a lovely online publication called Migrations Review. Read my article, Embracing a Migratory Life, and follow me not to miss any of my articles.
# Follow Paul Salopek’s amazing journey he embarked on in 2013 in a quest to follow our ancestors’ migration out of Africa. It is not just an incredibly ambitious project, but he is an excellent storyteller, allowing for a glimpse into the lives, cultures, and histories of the people and landscapes he encounters along the way.
TO LISTEN TO
# Season 2, (Cold Comfort) of THRESHOLD, an excellent podcast focusing on the people and environmental issues of the Arctic, and why it matters to all of us
# Season 1, episode Extra 4 of THRESHOLD – an episode focusing on man’s migration out of Africa and a good compliment to the Out of Eden Walk
WATCH
Take a walk with Midnight and Lily on the quinta.
Written by: Jolandi
It’s great to see everything coming along. I’m sure May will bring lots of progress. Love the bee pic.
I love the buzz of bees all around me when I work outside or go for a walk, Peggy. It is quintessential spring to me. Our young Portuguese neighbour keeps bees, so I always think that it is his bees all around me. – Jolandi
Hello Jolandi,
April greetings to you and your feline furry family members 🙂
I know I’ve written this before, but again I am struck by how similar we feel about many things. Your views on how our actions leave consequences for our planet – I feel exactly the same. I agree wholeheartedly about not accepting things at face value, while keeping an open mind for other views. (I wish “activists” would do the same for those who may not share “their” exact same views, but I digress!) Like you, I do my best to make careful and educated decisions, and try to make choices that are also sustainable to my lifestyle. I can imagine having a very long, pleasant conversation with you on so many topics in a quiet cafe 🙂
While it may feel as though she is taking her time, it appears Lady Spring is making her presence known on both your piece of land, and ours. (I find it an eerie coincidence how the uncertain weather patterns appear to be a global phenomenon, especially this year) It must have been heart-wrenching that Michael’s most recent visit was so brief, but there is definitely something to look forward to in May. I admire both your strength and perseverance!
The views of Spain are charming and it’s good to see how you are taking time to take care of you and enjoy more areas of Europe. Keeping fingers crossed that you will receive positive news on your residence visa soon – I think having paid some tax on your land shows that progress is being made, though it must feel excruciatingly slow.
The COVID situation continues to affect my country, but we are taking things one day at a time, and learning to adapt to this “new normal.” Our best wishes as always to you and yours, and your furry friends too. Please continue to take care and stay well!
I would love to sit in a quiet cafe having long conversations with you, Takami. I love how our views and values have so many similarities, despite coming from such different cultures. We will be able to talk for days on end! Maybe one day we will. Who knows. I still dream of one day visiting Japan for some walking.
I am learning that I need more patience than I ever thought would be necessary to deal with the many obstacles we constantly face here. When I dwell on it, it upsets me terribly, so I do my best to focus on the beauty I am surrounded with, trusting that everything is quitely falling into place without me noticing. Lady Spring, like you call her so beautifully, always bring joy to my heart, even though she is taking her time this year. Not just because of the incredible beauty she brings, but the promise of warmth and bare feet. I miss wearing my flip-flops!
Sending you a big hug and wishing you strength and patience when facing all of life’s challenges. May you find joy and beauty in your own slice of paradise this season. 💚
I was thinking of you just recently. Thank you for your report, Jolandi, especially for the video which brings me right there. You have lovely company. 🙂 And spring looks most joyous, I’m sure it will lift your mood until you are reunited. True, it brings work along as well. Our only olive tree had to go as it was completely rotten and mouldy inside the trunk. Some new tender branches are growing next to it now. We will see how it goes, but clearly it’s not a good position for it. We’ve had just a few poppies by now since it’s been so dry. For the last few days there was some rain, luckily. I wish you much fun with your crops.
I definitely have good company here. It brings me so much joy that they love walking with me, or hanging around nearby when I am outside. How sad about your olive tree, Manja. Isn’t it amazing how there is already new growth? It will be interesting to see if one of those branches will become a new tree. I still know so little about olive trees, but they fascinate me, especially because of their incredible resilience. Wishing you bountiful rain in the coming days, so spring can be as beautiful as it should be. Big hug. – Jolandi
As always I enjoy seeing the nature around you through your eyes. It’s a refreshing break from my urban lifestyle. There is a rhythm to it, and someday in the future Michael will be able to settle into that with you. For now, Lily and Midnight are clearly enjoying their freedom, and so lovely to be able to see them do that, and all your photos of travels away from the quinta.
Although I lived in an urban environment since I was 13, I will struggle to go back to that life now that I’ve tasted the internal freedom and peace of living closer to nature, Gwen. There is so much to learn that I often feel a bit overwhelmed, but I am learning that nature is also patient, and that it is okay for me to take my time to become a better custodian. – Jolandi
I like your perspective in the beginning of this post. I have seen far too many people who think they’re doing good for the environment but in the process they vilify others who are not like them which results in further divide in the society. Embracing others is what I believe we need, instead of widening the gap through confrontations. Listen and try to understand, don’t judge.
I love those spring blooms in the quinta, Jolandi. I hope the ticks won’t cause you and your cats any trouble. Those brown skies in Portugal do seem out of place. I wonder if this is normal, and how many days does this usually happen in a year?
I’m not entirely sure that it is a normal weather pattern, Bama. I should ask around a bit, but I was definitely taken by surprise as it did not occur last year. You know, these days I’m starting to understand what was always meant by the phrase “one should educate” people. I’ve always found it a bit patronising, but I think that if we could talk to one another, share information, and truly listen without judging, the interaction will bring awareness of how we fit into a bigger picture. It is that awareness that is the ‘education’ that we need to change our destructive ways, and engage in a gentler way of being on the planet. And there are so many nuances around how to do this. I always marvel at how there are many things I’ve never thought of until someone introduces it through good conversation or reporting, instead of shaming me for my perceived wrongs. – Jolandi
I’m glad you reminded me of the beginning of the post, Bama, and how we humans need to be so careful when we think we know best. There was so much in this post I had already forgotten that part.
Thank you for this post, Jolandi, and the journey with the cats. I was able to spot some of that lavender, which looks so very healthy. The cats look comfortable on the land, and it warms my heart. My old lady doesn’t play outside like that anymore, and prefers naps in the sun to exploration. It was funny when you spooked the cow. Glad to hear the Portuguese lessons are coming along. I just attended tutor training yesterday at my local community college to be a Spanish tutor. It was my professor’s idea, and I don’t know why she wants me to do it. I profess no particular skill or knowledge, but agreed to it because I think teaching others will help me learn. I enjoyed this entire post, as all of them. You are deeply personal and contemplative in everything you do, it seems. Your observations of Madrid, and the Quinta, and stewarding the land educate and inform me, and don’t push me in any direction, which feels good – you just share with us, and its so easy to feel like I am there with you. Thank you again.
It truly warms my heart to hear that you don’t feel like I push you in any direction. My aim is always simply to share my thoughts, feelings and experiences in the hope it will resonate with others in a way that isn’t preachy. Thank you for sharing that with me.
The cats love the quinta so much, and I did want to show how at home they are on the land in the little video, especially as it is such a different life from the one they had in Abu Dhabi. Their curiosity and companionship bring a lot of joy to my life. I do know that there will come a time when they will, like your old lady, seek out the sunny spots for naps instead of roaming outdoors.
How wonderfully clever of your professor to push you into teaching. I suspect it will not only be enriching for you, but that you will, like you say, also learn through the act of teaching. You are such a generous person, Crystal. I hope that this will bring much joy to you, and that you will soon have lovely conversations with Pedro in his mother tongue. Big hug. – Jolandi
I always love seeing your blog post come in, I know there will be lots of photos and thoughtful words. With spring just around the corner, all the flowers and new life brings joy and happiness, and I imagine work, but work with a purpose.
Please take care and find peace each day.
Terri
Thank you so much for those kind wishes, Terri. I need them at the moment, as there are some new and unforseen obstacles that we are having to deal with again. It is in times like these that I am especially grateful for the chores and the beauty of the land, as it never fails to calm my heart and steady my thoughts. Its a good thing we never know what waits for us in the future, because I would never have embarked on new journeys and adventures if I did, and would have missed out on so much of the richness of life if I did. I hope there is joy and peace in your days as spring unfolds around you, too. – Jolandi
I really love the film of the Quinta with the cats and all the beautiful flowers! I am sorry Michael wasn’t able to stay long at his last visit but it’s good to know he’ll be with you for three weeks next time. I often think that short visits are worse than no visits. I can cope with not seeing someone for ages and ages because I keep myself busy and I have hope in my heart. (I am thinking of my elder daughter here!) Short visits are like torture! There is not enough time to really relax and enjoy myself and stupidly, I spend most of it counting down the hours until they have to leave!
We had the yellow skies and the Saharan dust deposited in the rain a couple of weeks ago, too. It does happen every now and then when a plume of hot air comes up from Africa. I took my car to the garage for its yearly service and MOT two days later and the men there said they had had to spend hours cleaning all the cars they have for sale after they were covered in orange sand.
Our weather this winter has been dull and chilly with frequent frosts but not long-lasting ones. We had a few snow showers in November and then no more snow until this week when we had lots of snow over two days and high winds. All the poor spring flowers just bowed their heads to the ground and the blossom on the trees got battered. Fortunately, the snow didn’t settle for long and the sun came out again.
It’s good to know you are progressing well with your Portuguese language classes and that you have had tuition in olive pruning. I always get nervous when pruning our fruit trees but as long as I keep stepping back and looking at the shape of the tree as I go along it usually turns out okay.
Best of luck with all your fruit and vegetable growing! This time of year is so lovely but so busy too!
I glad you enjoyed the little walk around the quinta with the cats, Clare. I love that they enjoy walking around with me.
You know, I tend to agree with you on the short visits, although I guess I would rather choose a short visit to no visit. It really isn’t at all how we thought things will turn out, but until I have a residence visa and can leave the country, we will just have to use his leave the best we can to see one another regularly. Some days are really hard and frustrating.
I gathered that huge parts of Europe were affected by that cloud of Saharan dust. What a mess it left in its wake! Your weather really seems even worse than ours. And how ironic that just as one wants warm weather it is freezing.
Thank you for sharing your own experience with pruning. I guess stepping back is a good habit – not just from pruning, but so many other things in life to gain perspective, before plunging into the task again.
Well, let’s hope warmer weather is just around the corner for both of us. Big hug. – Jolandi
I felt bad that you and Michael weren’t able to spend more time together. Long distance marriages are hard, even when you know the situation is short term and “someday” you’ll be able to be together for good. I hope Spring’s return is some consolation to you: it looks like you and the cats have been able to go out and enjoy the greenery together. (I don’t think I’d trust my cat to go walking with me outdoors! She’d probably dash off in search of rodents and birds to kill. 🙁 )
Since the start of the pandemic I’ve been loathe to visit cities. I think I’d rather be in the Portuguese countryside than in busy Madrid, as much as I’ve wanted to see The Prado.
Yip, it really is hard to sustain a long distance marriage. Most days I’m fine with it, but on others I rebel. It isn’t at all what we envisioned, but circumstances beyond our control is dictating the situation, so we have no choice but to make the best of it. Or just survive!! 😅
I must admit that I also prefer the quinta, but because I live such a secluded life, brief excursions to a city is a real joy!
Hope you are enjoying your spring.
Big hug, Jolandi
Is there such a thing as “normal” weather? I think we humans like to assume we know about and can control a lot of things that we clearly cannot. Gardening shows us this very obviously. It’s more a case of tending and loving, then hoping for the best. Lovely to see your own progressing so beautifully despite the grey skies. Thank you for the podcast recommendations. Looking forward to checking them out as some point. Hoping this finds you and your little place of Portugal safe and well.
That is very true, Atreyee. I like to think that Nature knows best, and although I am obviously trying my best to tend and love the quinta and my vegetable garden as best I can, I’m also not under the illusion that I am in control. Spring is bringing a lot of chores, but when the weather is mild it is a joy to be outside.
I hope you enjoy the podcast – I find it to be interesting and good reporting.
May Spring bring you joy! – Big hug, Jolandi
A beautiful series of photos to show the great journey you are on, and made even more special (in a difficult sense) with Michael being away so often. You mention ticks, and I hear you on this – every time I head out hiking here in Czech I do a series of checks to make sure I get them all 🙂 Wishing you a great spring and happiness, Jolandi ~ your writing always inspires.
Thank you for your kind words and wishes, Randall. You clearly then understand my slight paranoia regarding ticks. Like a friend of mine recently said: “They are the only things I kill without remorse. Really, they have absolutely no purpose that is good for anything.” I tend to agree. Wishing you good eyes for tick season. May you find joy in those hikes. – Jolandi
Hi Jolandi,
It is good to know how you are doing there in Portugal with so many things to do! Some beautiful photos too and two cute cats. I can relate to the weather as I don’t like too much rain or cold winter here in New Zealand too but it is what it is and have to accept it while I am here. I wish to visit you there if possible haha! Anyway… we have to visit Switzerland first and Italy where the other half families and my cousins lived before I can plan to go to Portugal if I get lucky. I wish you well. I miss Abu Dhabi sometimes how about you? This covid makes it harder for us to travel so it’s only one at a time which is more important.
Take care and I do miss you and all my friends I left behind in the UAE.
Evelyn
Yes, I think the pandemic has been really hard for all of us who have families living in other parts of the world. I’m glad to hear that you are making the most of where you are, Evelyn, and hope that you and your son are happy. I much prefer living a quiet rural life than in the city, so because of that I don’t really miss the UAE. I feel nostalgic when thinking of my life there, but I am glad that I am where I am at the moment. At least most of the time. It was lovely to hear from you. Take care. – Jolandi