“. . . inching across the land at two or three miles an hour, is like eavesdropping on a public conversation. It has its own syntax.”
– Paul Salopek
When I had to fetch Michael from the airport in Lisbon the previous time he visited, I decided to spend the night before he arrived in Ericeira, a small town on the coast, roughly 50 kilometres north of Lisbon. It is a popular beach destination in summer, and is particularly popular with surfers. It is also currently the only site in Europe that is designated a World Surfing Reserve.
The town itself is compact and was a delight to explore on foot, especially at sunrise, when it felt deserted in contrast with the bustle of the previous afternoon and evening. The various churches and chapels that dot the town, provide quiet spaces for contemplation and solitude, while the traditional tile work or azulejos tell the stories of the inhabitants’ faith and their ties to the ocean. Walk with me through this peaceful space . . .
For sundowners it is difficult to beat Mar das Latas:
Portuguese Words:
azulejos – tiles
calçadas – sidewalks (done in typical mostly black and white patterns)
(o) mar – sea
(a) praia – beach
waves – ondas
reservas mundiais de surf – world surf reserves
Lisboa – Lisbon
Written by: Jolandi
I enjoyed the walk, what a beautiful village. Patou
I’m glad you did, Patou. I’ve been thinking about you, wondering if you will make it to France this year. – Jolandi
After seeing your photos, I had to cover my mouth to keep from crying out, ‘OMG, how I miss traveling!’ What a beautiful town! I love traditional tile art, so seeing the blue and white wall tiles was especially moving.
This is a bit off-topic, but has Portugal officially re-opened its public places, or is it still under a partial lockdown with masks and social distancing? I’ve started going out locally, but the decision to wear a mask or go bare-faced has been confusing, as some places require it, and others operate as if there was never a pandemic. I take a mask with me everywhere still, but in restaurants it seems futile, since you have to remove it to eat. I also prefer eating outdoors to sitting inside with dozens of other humans, but the heat wave has made that less fun. It’s hard to know what to do these days, but I still want to see the greater world!
I’m glad you enjoyed the stroll through Ericeira, Hangaku, but sorry that it punctuated that yearning to travel in you.
Public spaces have re-opened in Portugal, but the ‘new normal’ situation still requires the use of masks in public. I find it quite interesting that people in the US are allowed to go mask free once they are vaccinated. That is not the situation here. The country has done really, really well, but the Delta variant is causing problems again, and Lisbon and Porto (and other high risk areas), for example have had weekend lockdowns, which I gather will continue for a while, until authorities think that they have a grip on the situation again. The most recent restrictions that came out include showing either a vaccine certificate or negative test to enter restaurants over weekends and stay in hotels any day of the week in high risk municipalities.
I don’t pay a lot of attention to it, as where I am life is so very different from that in a city, and often the rules just confuse me. Except for wearing masks in public it really feels almost normal. That is until Michael is due for a visit. Then I’m reminded again of all the restrictions and forever changing rules. He finds it very stressful these days to travel, but I’m very grateful that it is at least possible between the UAE and Portugal, as there are so many places (including South Africa) that is not possible to travel to at the moment. – Jolandi
Thank you for taking us along on your walk. What a cute and quaint little town. Love the architecture, the views, the quiet streets and alleyways. The rusty locks and weathered paint show the wear from the sea air and it adds to the story of the town. My favorite is the painting on the building with the red chairs. What a fun stay for you, and your photos let me explore the town with you, I felt like I was there.
It really was such a delight, especially as it looks rather different from the towns in Central Portugal, Terri. I’m really happy to hear that you enjoyed the stroll with me. It was lovely for me to relive it through the act of compiling the photos for the post. A little bit of virtual travel is also good for the soul at the moment. Stay well. – Jolandi
I really enjoyed my stroll through Ericeira with you. Jolandi. I can quite believe it can be busy during the day and evening, just like our coastal towns, so a walk at dawn was the best way to see the town at your leisure. The light was so good as well! The tiles and house decorations are lovely and the churches so ornate! I am sure Michael must find travelling very stressful. I am sure he would benefit from a day at the seaside after his journey and before getting to work on the land! We decided to do no travelling and have no holidays until the pandemic is over – the stress would be too great to bear. Of course Michael’s journeys are absolutely necessary and for a good purpose. Best wishes to you both!
Ah, yes, I love the early morning light, Clare. And I always love exploring when most people are still asleep. I completely understand waiting to travel until the pandemic is over, as it really isn’t the same. And rules change so quickly that it can mess up one’s plans completely – hence all the extra stresses. I’m not overly keen to travel at the moment either, but I’m so glad that I did decide to spend the one night in Ericeira. The latest decree requires a negative test or a vaccine passport in order to stay in any accommodation on mainland Portugal, so this time I will simply drive to pick up Michael and drive back. I’m not quite used to driving around 7 hours a day, but it is less of a hassle than going through so much trouble just to shave off 2 hours of driving. I’ve registered to get a vaccine, but haven’t been notified yet of when I need to go, so eventually that will become easier. For now, like you, I prefer to stay close to home. Take good care of yourself. – Jolandi
Made me miss home, thank you for the lovely photos. Filomena
Ah, I can just imagine how much you do, Filomena. Especially now that travel is either impossible or challenging. I hope you are well, my friend. – Jolandi
The village looks lovely, Jolandi, thanks for taking us on this beatiful walk.
I’m glad you enjoyed a change of scenery, Tanja. – Jolandi
Oooh, my, so much beauty – and then it came, THAT section! 😮 From the fish to the doorknob, simply stunning. Thank you so much for these!
Your love of doors and windows often cross my mind when I take pictures of them, Manja, so I’m glad to hear you found delight in those photos. – Jolandi
It’s been a long time since we’ve been on such a photo journey with you. I’m envious of your ability to wake at dawn, as I would never see the town in this peaceful light for myself.
I adore that part of the day, Gwen. There is something that stirs my soul like no other time of the day can. Perhaps because there are less people out and about. – Jolandi
Such beauty! I enjoyed all the blue and the tiles, and especially those bright red chairs against the scene painted on the wall. I could almost feel the quiet cool morning and the peace there. Thank you for this walk. I’m glad you were able to fetch Michael and I’m sure you will savor the weeks together. <3
I’m glad you enjoyed the walk with me, Crystal. – Jolandi
What beautiful photos ~ the beach and the town looked like the perfect stopover before the “fetching” 😛
It was a great excuse for a little bit of adventure and exploring, Lani. – Jolandi
Such a tidy little town, and it looked particularly scrubbed and serene at daybreak. Speaking of serene, the water looks way too placid for surfing … the only surf I saw was coming right into those cliffs! Is that done at another beach, or was it just not the right time of day for big waves? Thanks for the mini European trip – loved it!
There are about 7 or 8 beaches around town, Lexie. I did see a couple of surfers bobbing around on their surfboards at a beach close to town I visited just before I left, but no waves. I guess the conditions were just not right for good waves that morning, but I also assume that the waves are different depending on the beach. High on my bucket list is Nazaré, about 120km north of Ericeira, where an underwater canyon, with the help of other conditions create really big waves in winter. Here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74pnrYPozcU I’m no surfing enthusiast, but those waves give me the chills. – Jolandi
How totally charming! It took me a minute to figure out what is mural and what is real on your header photo. The blue trim and gorgeous tiles are stunning on the white buildings. The beach looks so inviting and not at all “surfy”. Thanks for the lovely tour.
That mural really is a favourite of mine, Caroline, specifically because it forces one to do a double take. Yip, I guess the surf wasn’t great when I was there. – Jolandi
If I ever find myself in Ericeira, I think I’ll be more inclined on exploring the town than hanging around the waterfront area. It just looks like a pretty and peaceful place to wander around, marveling at the architecture, and admiring the azulejos. That mural toward the end of this post is really stunning!
You know, although I strolled along the waterfront, I didn’t make it onto the beach at all, Bama. It was still a bit chilly at the time, but I’m not a big beach fan. I’d rather stroll through town or hike in the mountains. I absolutely love that mural too. One of my all time favourites. – Jolandi