“Those who don’t know how to suffer are the worst off. There are times when the only correct thing we can do is to bear our troubles until a better day.”
– Deng Ming-Dao
This past week, like the snowflakes when I woke up yesterday morning, was a flurry of activity that held great promise.
The heat pump, which we’ve been told was the answer to an underperforming heating system, was finally being installed. After various cold showers, and two weeks of bucket ‘showers’ so that I could heat water by boiling the kettle, the promise of a hot shower was finally on the horizon.
That, and a warm, toasty house.
As the temperatures started plummeting at the beginning of the week, so was the temperature in the house. My feet were starting to get cold. I had to plug the electric heater back in and run it to capacity to get the inside temperature to 20°C, which at the best of times are not exactly what I would consider comfortable. But soon I watched, as the temperature struggled to get to 19, then 18.
The electricity supply was struggling to match my usage, and when it tripped for a second time in less than a week, I was plunged in the dark.
Literally.
I grabbed my head torch, a screwdriver and a warm jacket, and stepped outside. Around me, the night held secrets I couldn’t see, above me the sky was filled with stars. I swallowed hard. The meter box with the reset button was 200 meters up the road. A chill rippled up my spine. I’m not scared of living on the quinta on my own, but I don’t like the dark. Never have. Most probably never will.
I ran back into the house to grab the car keys. At 7pm there was already a thin layer of frost it, and it took a while for the warmth generated by the engine to unthaw the windscreen so that I could see where I was driving. Bathed in the glow of the head lights, I unscrewed two screws, freed the panel protecting the reset button, pressed and held it for two seconds. Gone was the error message, so I reversed the process, and happily drove back home. The temperature gauge on the car read -3°C.
Back in the house, I consulted Google Translate to send the Electrician a message. As a result of the outage, I discovered that the switch, in the electricity box inside the house, for the underfloor heating was off. I wondered if it was off on purpose or by accident, but to my relief, the message came back that I could switch it back on.
The next morning there was no water. The water pipes were frozen solid. The temperature in the house was 18°C. Outside, the bucket which catches the drip from the pipe that is still waiting to transform into a tap, was tipped out and became an ice bucket, the sides of which, three days later, slowly dissoved in the sun, but the bottom of which is still lying frozen on the ground as I’m typing these words.
Another flurry of activity ensued over the next two days. A temporary solution was made in the gaping openings, begging for doors, to prevent the water pipe from freezing up again. Two days later another trades person came to measure for the doors, while the permanent water pipe was plumbed in and wrapped in insulation.
The electricity capacity was increased, final work was done on the heat pump, and I was told the water will now be able to reach 55°C.
Finally a hot shower.
And a hot house.
The shower was hot and lovely, but the next morning the temperature in the house was 17°C. And this after we’ve spent what is close to the yearly GDP of a small country on this supposedly effective heating system.
And so, just like the snowflakes twirling around outside the whole of yesterday with the tantalising promise of a white landscape, yet melting as soon as they hit the ground, my dream of a snug, warm house came to nothing.
Everything here feels like an intricate and unfamiliar dance, where three steps forward, always seem to be followed by two steps back. On a good day I celebrate that one step forward as progress, on a bad day, I’d like to kick someone in the . . . shins.
Today is a bad day. It is Sunday. Still weekend. And I’m cold and grumpy.
Disappointment, frustration, and anger are mixed into an emotional cocktail that is topped with the fact that I miss Michael and the cats. It has been three months since moving here, and I’m still waiting for the work to be finished, for the new plans to be handed in at the municipality, and for my appointment with immigration.
Of course I know things will get better again. I’ve been through worse in my life. But today my glass is half empty.
Portuguese words:
quente – hot
frio (m) / fria (f) – cold
gelo – ice
geada – frost
neve – snow
inverno – winter
Written by: Jolandi
Notes:
# Michael, true to his nature, is trying to fix things. He hates that his wife is cold, and thinks that there are a couple of places where the system can be tweaked to perform better, but the thick stone walls count against us, and the fact that the system is set to allow only 40°C water to flow into the floor is a bit disconcerting, as that, under the current freezing conditions, cannot sufficiently heat the house.
# I have collected the gas heater from the barn, and the house is now a toasty 22°C. I’m already starting to feel better, and perhaps tomorrow my glass will be back to being half full.
The photos are so peaceful and I can feel the cold in them. I would be so cranky and half glass full too. There is just something miserable about being so cold. Hang in there, hopefully 2021 is going to get better for all of us.
I’m so glad I’m not the only one who gets cranky when cold, Terri. Fingers crossed this year gets better for all of us. – Jolandi
I literally shivered reading this. My glass would not only be half empty but frozen solid. I’m sorry you have had a rough go recently, and I admire your tenacity and fearlessness in handing it alone. Hot water will surely help a little bit! Hope the remaining heating problems get figured out soon.
The house looks sooooo charming! Have we ever seen a full-building shot like that? I love seeing the (almost) finished product.
I don’t think I’ve posted a photo like this before of the house, Lex. A friend mentioned it the other day to me. I guess I was trying to wait until it is all done. 😉
Thank you for your lovely encouraging words. My approach to life to try and take only one day at a time is helping a lot at the moment. Fingers crossed that some fiddling with the system will improve performance. And that gas heater is working beautifully, so life is already looking much better to me. – Jolandi
Thinking of you.. Cold is not easy.. May the New Year only but improve.. 😉
That is my wish and hope too, Lisa. For all of us! The only reason I thought I would be able to cope with winter, was by having a snug house . . . well, fingers crossed that will happen at some point. It was ironically rather cosy, until this cold spell and they started to work on installing the heat pump. They promised to be back tomorrow, so let’s see. – Jolandi
I’ve long fantasized about living in the country, but then I hear stories like yours and think, ‘Not until I know how to fix my own plumbing and heating!’
Seriously, I hope the weather where you live becomes a bit warmer or at least tolerable, or the contractor fixes the heating soon. While I’m used to freezing weather and chilly rooms, I would not want to endure either again. I also hope you’ll be reunited with Michael and the cats soon. Physical discomfort combined with loneliness is hard on the soul.
You know, that is why I’m so grateful for Michael. He is inteligent and practical, and if he doesn’t quite know how to do something, he teaches himself to do just that. It looks like him and I have fixed the problem yesterday afternoon. The floor is heating up as I type. Fingers crossed. I will make sure I report back on this in Sunday’s post.
Like you say, Hangaku, it is when physical discomfort combines with that of loneliness that it is really hard on the soul. I can face many things, no matter how challenging, when I at least feel physically more comfortable. It is quite amazing how many times a day my glass half empty and glass half full have fluctuated over the last couple of days. – Jolandi
UGH. Reminds me of times when I felt like it was me versus Nature and everything else. It’s the rustic dream in the countryside that we often don’t hear about but will one day make great stories. Right? 😛
At least you’re still showering! I remember when I was ‘trailer sitting’ in the middle of one of the worst winters in Colorado when the heater broke. And I lived like that for a while, until someone came to fix it. I stopped bathing and changing clothes. I wore my jammies and wrapped layers of blankets over me while I worked on my Shakespeare paper. Hahahahha.
Goodness gracious me, Lani. You clearly know what I’m talking about. Actually I think you’ve had it much tougher. I love that you’ve shared your experience, as like you say, we so often don’t talk about these things, and they are as much a part of life as when things go right.
And yes, these things do make for great stories. I hate the cold and would rather not have this story, but hey, at least I have something to write about. It actually looks like Michael and I fixed the problem yesterday afternoon, as there is suddenly some heat radiating through the floor this morning. Another story to tell!! Fingers crossed. – Jolandi
Ugh. If my feet get cold my whole body gets cold. And that is not at anything like the temperatures you are experiencing. And after being used to the heat of UAE it’s doubly hard to take. I note from the comments that some solutions are on the way. I guess you are using bottles for the gas. Nice and cosy, but does need good ventilation I suspect.
Luckily I only had to use the gas heater for about 2 days, and only through the day. It is a great way to quickly heat a place, but it also creates a lot of condensation, and like you point out, one also needs ventilation. It appears that the system is now functioning properly. I will do a follow up in my next post.
Like you, both Michael and I agree about when we have cold feet our whole bodies are cold, hence we wanted underfloor heating and not radiators. This first winter, apart from the fact that it is extreme even in Portuguese standard, is difficult to adjust to perhaps because of almost a decade of much warmer temperatures in the UAE. It takes a while for us to adapt and adjust, but just like we did adjust to the heat in the UAE I’m hopeful that we will also adapt to the new idea of four seasons and particularly the cold weather here. – Jolandi
Jolandi, what a chilly read. My ignorance did not realise that Portugal got that icy, i somewhat thought mediterranean even tempered climate. Well you have got through this, human spirit is amazing. Appreciate your wonderful posts and your experiences. big warm hug coming your way x
Sadly there is nothing temperate about the climate in Central Portugal, Nanette. Although I’m quite sure someone from the Scandinavian countries may disagree. There are four distinct seasons here, and not like in South Africa where spring and autumn sometimes only last a couple of days. 😉 Like you say, the human spirit is amazing, and life really is just about getting used to things. It is the getting used to things in which the challenge lies, though, and that takes time. Thank you for that lovely warm hug, it is much appreciated. I hope you are enjoying the lovely heat of summer at the moment. – Jolandi
Reading along with great interest. Power tools, mushrooms, olive trees… There is so much that reminds me of me here in rural Tuscany, except that it’s completely different too. I didn’t have to move a muscle but rather moved into a (relatively) warm house already. But it wasn’t really as nice as it’s now until we got a stufa, the wood pellet furnace. And you are not used to the cold at all! It is understandable that your glass will be half cold. I mean full. I really hope it improves soon and that you are reunited. I also enjoy your vocabulary lessons. Unsurprisingly almost all Italian words sound mighty similar. Except for olives!
I love that the Portuguese is similar sounding to Italian. How comfortable are you with Italian, Manja? I find Portuguese really difficult to learn, but I’ve decided not to put too much pressure on myself. I take my time memorising vocabulary and practicing simple sentences for now. It can become complicated and overwhelming so quickly!
I’m sure that there must be a lot of similarities to rural life with all its related challenges and joys. Are you still happy where you are? – Jolandi
I’m taking it slowly too, my Italian. I guess I hope to absorb it by osmosis. 😀 I’d be much happier without these limitations since one of the points of life is movement, especially between countries, and now I don’t do it. But considering everything, yes, I’m still happy. I wish you many happy moments too.
Oh how I wish one can learn a language through osmosis, Manja! 🙂 Apart from the fact that learning another language takes a lot of hard work and dedication, not to mention time, I find that my brain is much more reluctant to actually retain the words and language structures I keep on repeating. Ugh!
Yes, life is definitely more of a challenge when one cannot freely move around, no matter how beautiful the place is one find oneself in. I’m glad to hear that you are still happy in Italy, despite the lack of movement.
I’m quite grateful that there is a lot of work on the quinta, which gets me outside and engaged in physical activity, and makes me forget about all the restrictions of movement, even if it is only for a short while. – Jolandi
We had a few snowflakes.
But Corona is causing more serious and dangeoud problems.
Hope you are well and healthy.
Kind regards,
Yes, the virus is certainly creating a lot of havoc, Rob. Portugal is back to a very strict lockdown.
Stay safe. – Jolandi
I am catching up on your wonderful updates, and I am glad I read your latest blog entry before reading this one. I too, am ashamed to admit that I was unaware how chilly it can get in this area of the world. I am so happy you can enjoy hot showers now, and that (most importantly) you are staying safe and healthy.
It appears to be an exceptionally cold winter for Portugal, as I myself was a bit shocked at the recent temperatures, Takami, especially as I’ve been under the impression that it hardly ever dips below zero degrees Celcius here. The temperatures are far more pleasant at the moment and the mornings have been frost free, although it has been overcast and raining, so at least with a warm house, its easier on my state of mind. 😉 Stay healthy, warm, and safe. Big hug. – Jolandi
Despite the rough (cold) patch, your photo skills are amazing. You’ve really captured some lovely images, especially the frozen vegetation. It also sounds like you’re learning lots about home repair issues. Good luck; I hope that the worst of the cold is almost over!
Thank you, Caroline. I always look for images that will capture the gist of a post, and I’m glad I could use these, as I didn’t think a post just about frost would be all that interesting. 😉
Although it was cold I had so much fun capturing the frost. I was quite happy with the result, especially as my camera is very basic. I’m dreaming of and saving up for a mirrorless one with different lenses . . . – Jolandi