I’m told that it is tradition for families in Portugal to gather on the 24^th of December, and like in most cultures it is the dinner table around which it happens. It doesn’t come as a surprise then that the Catholic Church recommends a period of fasting before Christmas. Families gather after Midnight Mass on the 24^th with tables groaning under food. Traditionally dishes of bacalhau (salted cod) or other fish forms the main part of the meal, although other meat dishes, and even roast turkey can also make an appearance at what is known as the night of the Consoada. In the south of Portugal a pig is often killed a couple of days before Christmas, and various cuts and sausages make their way onto the table.

For dessert, there is always Bolo Rei (King’s Cake) in the shape of a crown, filled with candied fruits and nuts, in addition to other fried desserts like filhós, sonhos, coscorões, velhozes, azevias, and rabanadas, which is a type of French toast. 

The word consoada is derived from the Latin word consolare, meaning ‘to comfort’, and ironically refers to the small meal that is taken at the end of a day of fasting. In the North of Portugal around Minho, Porto and Guimarães, it is customary to set places at the table during this meal for those relatives who have passed away recently. Or in some cases the table is left laid and a candle or lamp remains burning throughout the night to comfort and warm their souls.

Midnight Mass on the 24^th, which is believed to have been created by Pope Sixtus III sometime in the 5^th Century, is also referred to as Misso do Galo (Mass of the Rooster) in Portuguese and Spanish speaking countries, with a variety of theories trying to explain the origin or the name.  

One of the unique Christmas traditions in both Central Portugal and the North, is that of the Madeiros or Christmas Fires. They are meant to ‘warm the baby Jesus’, are lit at midnight on the 24^th, and are kept burning for a couple of days, or if there is enough firewood until the 6^th of January, or Three Kings Day. Wood for these bonfires are either collected or donated, and in the past even stolen, as each town or village wanted their fire to be the biggest. It used to be young men who were about to enter military service and unmarried men to whom this task fell, and in which they could show off their strength and masculinity. These days various members of the community, both male and female, participate in the tradition.

Penamacor, our local town, is known for having the biggest Madeiro in Portugal. Some say it can reach a height of 10 metres, and the bombeiros are usually present to calm the flames down when they get too hot or out of hand. Instead of lighting this bonfire after Misso do Galo on the 24^th, it is lit at midnight on the 23^rd of December. Firewood is collected and traditionally delivered to the church on the 8^th of December, or Day of the Immaculate Conception, which is a great excuse for celebration with food and drink. This year, these Madeiros have been cancelled, but in a spirit of defiance with the belief that traditions need to be honoured, local men still delivered trailer loads of wood to the local church, where a bonfire was promptly packed. It remains to be seen if they will be allowed to light it on Wednesday night.

Boas Festas.
May you all have a blessed Christmas, wherever you are.

Portuguese Words:
boas festas – happy holidays
Feliz Natal – Merry Christmas
Madeiro(s) – Christmas Fire(s)
Misso do Galo – Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve
bombeiros – firemen

Written by: Jolandi

Note:
The wood was removed a couple of days before Christmas, but the municipality organised a surprised firework display that lit up the sky over town at midnight on the 23rd, when the Madeiro was traditionally lit. A wonderful gesture to make up for skipping a tradition that is perhaps ingrained in the spirit of the people in this part of the country.

In a couple of smaller villages in the area I noticed small fires in front of their churches on Christmas Day, as perhaps a symbolic nod to a tradition that people are keen to keep alive despite the restrictions and discomforts of the pandemic.